Review: Pattern (& Class) mixing at Vetements Fall 2018

Demna Gvasalia's done it again! The "it" I'm referring to of course, is making a collection that leaves you scratching your head once you hear the retail price. This won't be a long diatribe about the cost driver that is "hype" (I'll save that for later), so you can unroll your eyeballs please and thank you. 

Named "The Elephant in the Room" this collection was intentioned to address the industry side eye that Demna has received in the past for his "references" (can quotation marks be capitalized?) to Maison Margiella of whom Demna was a subject for may years. Since then his work has been cited as pulling perhaps too much from Margiella's trademark repurposing of fabrics to create something new. 

If Margiellic inspiration is the elephant in the room, then the 300lb gorilla of poverty tourism will at least have an equally large friend to talk to. My challenge with this collection isn't getting on board with the designers vision to glorify the "everyday", or even the work and skill that goes into layering and styling. I just find it hard to believe that the 'slept at the greyhound station' look was one born solely out of the creative ether and not some backwards way of moving street fashion to its final resting place. 

My feelings aside (too late!) in the collection you'll find the staple Vetements pieces- the hoodie, the graphic tee, the logos- as well as a couple very worked on pieces like some very distressed jeans, embellished trousers, and patchwork outerwear that I'm sure we'll see Bella Hadid in any day now.

Check out the collection for yourself below, and let me know what you think in the comments section.  


Jonathan Bell