NYFWM: Raf Simons Fall 18 Menswear

Strewn with empty wine bottles, loaves of bread, and all the fixings for a bomb charcuterie board,  Raf Simons pulled inspiration from my bedroom floor for to set the stage for his Fall '18 Menswear collection presented at NYFWM. If you're a RAF fan then you'll be happy to know that this collection is almost a contiguous singular thought from his Fall 17 show. Last years collection was filled with oversized knits, satin sheen trenches, and some lovely varsity stripe forearm warmers that I wonder if made the production cut. If you're not a Raf fan - as if anyone in the ~industry~ would admit to not being a Raf fan - then Im not gonna lie it may be a bit of a snooze fest. 

This years show featured turtle necks worn by just the neck (revolutionary), full length leather evening gloves for men (Avant!), graphic prints of the word "DRUGS" sprinkled hither (Cutting -Edgeeee), and pops of neon sprinkled thither (ARE YOU GETTING THE SARCASM). Also the footwear for the show debuted some mid calf rubber boots that will be perfect for the fashion conscious serial killer in your life. 

I've always liked Raf for the referential risks that he takes with his collections. Like in his Spring 18 menswear show where fish mong... models took to the runway in oversized latex/rubber jackets, each one with his own personal tiny umbrella to round out the look. It was a dreary scene out of a Japanese manga centering on the lives of inappropriately dressed firemen, as seen through the eyes of a Belgian born designer, now based in New York. All to say it made absolutely no sense whatsoever on paper, but somehow the physical manifestation of that idea seemed almost obvious. Like, OF COURSE these clothes should exist.

Twenty Eighteen however, leaves me exclaiming not that these clothes should exist, but rather, asking "don't they already?". 

Its getting a little difficult to distinguish between the boxy checked jacket of Raf and the boxy checked jacket over at Balenciaga. And if you've already seen the Tom Ford Fall 18 show, then I won't even go into the debate on who the satin pant belongs to (hopefully me come fall, because Ive got a curvy- read: pear shaped - body thats made for shiny pants). The boots are vaguely reminiscent of some iteration of the (hideous) spaceman boots Kanye did for Adidas, and the large graphic words in quotations I think can all agree is having its moment with Virgil and Off White.

You can check out the full collection below and let me know what you think in the comments.

Also, just a note: like, how good is charcuterie though? right? Omg. 

 

x

Jonathan Bell 

 

photos via: Vogue Runway